Car Write-Off & Salvage Categories Explained: Cat A, B, S & N

What the Cat A, B, S and N salvage categories actually mean — including older Cat C/D — and which write-off cars are safe to buy.

By the MotorMkt teamPublished Last updated

How we source our data: our free checks use official records from the DVLA (registration & tax) and DVSA (MOT history). Paid full history data — finance, stolen and write-off markers — is supplied by UK Vehicle Data (UKVD), which aggregates industry registers including MIAFTR (insurance write-offs) and the Police National Computer (stolen markers). MotorMkt does not query those registers directly.

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Quick answer

UK insurance write-offs fall into four categories. Cat A — scrap only, must be crushed, no parts may be reused. Cat B — the body shell must be destroyed, but some parts can be salvaged; never legal to drive again. Cat S — structural damage (chassis/frame) that can be professionally repaired and returned to the road. Cat N — non-structural damage (e.g. cosmetic, electrical) that can be repaired. Cat S and N cars can be sold and driven if properly repaired, but should be priced lower, disclosed, and independently inspected. (Pre-October 2017: Cat C = today's S, Cat D = today's N.)

The four write-off categories at a glance
CategoryDamageRoad-legal?Buyer advice
Cat A
Scrap only — entire vehicle must be crushedNoNever legal to drive or sell. Walk away.
Cat B
Body shell destroyed; some parts may be salvagedNoParts only. The car itself can never return to the road.
Cat S
Structural (chassis/frame) damage, professionally repairableYes, if properly repairedLower price, full disclosure, independent inspection essential.
Cat N
Non-structural damage (cosmetic, electrical)Yes, if properly repairedOften good value; still confirm repair quality and disclosure.

Category definitions follow the ABI Salvage Code, and write-offs are recorded on the MIAFTR insurance register.

Old categories: Cat C and Cat D

Before October 2017, the categories were A, B, C and D. The scale was renamed — not changed in meaning — so the old codes still appear on older vehicles:

  • Cat C → today's Cat S (structural, repairable)
  • Cat D → today's Cat N (non-structural, repairable)
Thinking of buying a Cat S or Cat N car?
  • • Expect to pay noticeably less than a clean equivalent — typically 15–30% lower.
  • • Insist on written disclosure of the category and the original damage.
  • • Get an independent inspection to confirm the repair was done properly.
  • • Check it will be insurable at a sensible premium before you commit.
  • • Remember resale will be harder — factor that into the price you pay.
Frequently asked questions
Is a Cat N car safe to buy?
It can be, if the damage was minor and repairs were done properly. Get an independent inspection, expect a lower price (typically 15–30% below clean value), and confirm it's disclosed in writing.
Can you insure a Cat S or Cat N car?
Yes, but fewer insurers offer it and premiums can be higher; always declare the category when you take out the policy.
What's the difference between Cat C/D and Cat S/N?
They're the same scale renamed in October 2017. Cat C became Cat S (structural damage); Cat D became Cat N (non-structural damage). Older vehicles may still show the C/D categories.
Will a write-off show on a car check?
A full history check searches the insurance write-off register (MIAFTR) and salvage records and shows the category and the date it was recorded.
What is a salvage car?
A salvage car is one an insurer has written off after damage or theft and recorded on the salvage register. Cat A and Cat B salvage cannot legally return to the road; Cat S and Cat N salvage (formerly Cat C and Cat D) can, if properly repaired.
Can you still buy a Cat C or Cat D car?
Yes. Cat C and Cat D were renamed Cat S and Cat N in October 2017, but older vehicles still carry the C/D markers. They can be bought and driven if repaired properly and priced to reflect the history.
How much less is a Cat S or Cat N car worth?
Typically 15–30% below the equivalent clean car, and resale is harder, so factor both the discount and the reduced future value into what you pay.

Check a car's write-off history

A full history check shows any recorded write-off category and date. Or ask Frank to explain what a marker means for a specific car.